Christmas, Delhi-style

I spent this Christmas not only in India, but in Delhi this time. While the holiday season has been a big change from last year's adventure in Mumbai, Pune and Goa, it hasn't been without holiday cheer.

We started out by spending Christmas Eve at Armen and Nyree's apartment, which is conveniently located in our neighborhood. We were joined by old friends and new friends, and even some Christmas carolers.

Unlike Christmas at home, all shops are still open on Christmas Day - and they are jam-packed because everyone has the day off! I wasn't brave enough to hit the markets, but Ani did and was quickly overwhelmed. I just made a quick visit to the grocery store for some last minute dinner items.

In the evening, Ani's family came over to celebrate Christmas with me. Although I didn't prepare a turkey and stuff (I didn't prepare anything), we enjoyed a nice Indian meal together. We had a little Christmas tree decorated in the corner of the living room - and there were even present underneath it. Everyone enjoyed the evening and I got rave reviews on my gift wrapping abilities.

Caption: Kamlesh (Ani's sister), Rajni (Ani's sister), Puneet, (Rekha's son), Rekha (Ani's sister), me, Souhani (Bhupinder and Madhu's daughter), Rajesh (Kamlesh's husband), Sheren (Rajni's daughter), Bhupinder (Ani's brother), Madhu (Bhupinder's wife)

So while it wasn't a typical Christmas, it was a nice one, complete with family and friends.

Christmas Extravaganza 2007

On Saturday we went to the 10th Annual Christmas Extravaganza at the Carnegie Institute. My involvement this year was remote and rather limited, but my fellow hosts did an amazing job and managed to pull off the best party yet.

Guests were greeted at the entrance with carolers and skysearcher lights and a photographer took photos as people entered. Once inside, they enjoyed drinks at our upgraded bar - complete with Grey Goose, Patron, a huge Scotch selection and my favorite, CHAMPAGNE! We even had a nutcracker ice bar with an ice luge serving our signature Tentini martinis.

The band, Kristen and the Noise was awesome. People danced up a storm. And everyone was able to hang around until 1am this year, instead of the usual midnight.

And the highlight was the huge gathering of family and friends that came to help us celebrate Christmas.

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My Apartment

I've been meaning to post a few photos of my apartment, which is still only half-decorated. But it's a start. I also have a pretty nice balcony, but it's dark outside right now, so those photos will have to come another day.

The living/dining room - one day I will have a dining table set instead of a mattress.

The kitchen - including my beloved oven / roaster / griller or OTG.

The bedroom - with a pile of clothes on the bed because I have closet issues.

My next steps are to buy curtains and hang things on the walls. And maybe paint, if we decide to stay here for another year. But, it's definitely coming along and a vast improvement over what it looked like in March when Mike and Jen saw it. And it's WAY better than when Joey and Jarret were here - but that was only a few days after I moved in. Just remember, visitors are welcome!

Tremors

Today I woke up around 4:30am to rumbling. Ani didn't move an itch, so I just assumed that I had been dreaming. I went to the bathroom, then hopped back in bed and fell asleep.

A few hours later, I was riding in the car to work and my colleagues where yapping away in Hindi. I finally asked what they were talking about and they said that there was an earthquake this morning!

Turns out it was relatively minor, only 4.3 magnitude, but a little scary nonetheless. Fortunately, reported damage is minimal, which is remarkable in a country with such shoddy infrastructure. I'm sure more stories will come out throughout the day, but for now, all is well.

And I'm happy to know that I'm not crazy and I really did feel something this morning.

Reuters India: Quake measuring 4.3 hits New Delhi, surrounding areas

Playtime at Chanda Aunty's

Two of my favorite people came over today for breakfast. They were Sheren and Souhani, Ani's nieces. Sheren will be 5 in a few weeks and Souhani turns 2 in early January. I quickly realized that the apartment is not child-proof and that I was lacking entertained for kids. Fortunately, I had a stash of bubbles (thanks Laura!) that did the trick for awhile. And when the novelty of those wore off, I could always turn to my collection of shoes and jewelry to keep the girls amused.

(This photo is from a few weeks ago, but I love it, so I had to post it)

Oh yeah, this is India

Early today I was returning from my daily visit to the doctor by cycle rickshaw and we were got in an enormous traffic jam at the side entrance to my neighborhood. I soon noticed that there were two police officers trying their best to direct traffic and I thought to myself, how nice. Progress was slow, but things were moving.

Then I noticed a police vehicle that was also trying to get through the madness. Eventually, the car was able to pass and disappeared down the street. But then I noticed that the police officers also disappeared.

Apparently they were only there to help their car and not the numerous cars, trucks, motorbikes, bicycles and pedestrians that were also trying to maneuver through the intersection.

Oh yeah, this is India, every man for himself.

Chokhi Dhani

After a REALLY long car ride to Jaipur from Agra, we finally arrived at our hotel Chokhi Dhani. We rested for a bit and then made out way to the grounds for a Rajasthani dinner and village entertainment. We enjoyed a spicy, veg meal while sitting on the ground - Rajasthani style! These photos will look very familiar to some of you, especially Joey and Jarret.

Afterwards, we walked about the ground and listening to the music, watched the dancers, and sipped yummy chai. My mom and I even took a camel ride! Unfortunately, both of our camera batteries died at this point, so we don't have any proof!

Agra and the Taj Mahal

On Sunday, we ventured to Agra by car to visit the Taj Mahal. After an early start (6am) and nearly 5 hours in the car, we finally arrived. Our timing was great and we got there just before the masses arrived.

My favorite part was the discrepancy in prices for India nationals (20 rupees or $0.50) and foreign nationals (750 rupees or almost $20). Somehow this price difference is justified because the foreign tickets include a bottle of water and slippers to use while inside (otherwise you are requried to take your shoes off).

Anyways, once inside, we thoroughly enjoyed it. We hired a guide to show us around, which was great because I missed a lot of the details the last time. After about 2 hours of walking around and touring, we headed back to the car and avoided all of the tourist-trap shops.

Next stop: Jaipur

Meet the Parents

Well, it was more like the parents meeting each other. Last Friday, on my parents first full day in Delhi, we had dinner at Ani's family's house. We were warmly greeted by his entire family - Dad, Mom, 1 brother, 3 sisters, 1 sister-in-law, 2 brother-in laws, 2 nephews and 2 nieces! We had a wonderful dinner at their house and most of the time was spent chatting with one another. Ani's brother-in-laws took the lead and ensured that my parents were entertained and felt at home.

It couldn't have been a better first meeting. Everyone really enjoyed themselves and is looking forward to more similar evenings.

The First Day

My Mom and Dad arrived in Delhi late on Thursday night. By the time we were back to my apartment and ready for bed, it was already 4am. They were up early the next morning, which meant so was I. After breakfast, we set off for the start of sightseeing in Delhi. First we visited Humayun's Tombs, one of my favorite places in Delhi.

My actual favorite place is a huge interchange near my house. I love it for two reason. First, it is incredibly efficient, something you don't see every day in India. Second, among all of the on and off ramps are huge green spaces, another thing you don't see too often here. Ani and his family laughed at me everytime we pass through and they remark, "Oh, this is Chanda's favorite place in all of Delhi!" But it's true.

After touring Humayun's Tombs, we drove by Parliament, India Gate and the President's House. Our final stop of the afternoon was at Khan Market, where we enjoyed a little shopping and lunch before heading back to my apartment. By this time, the jet lag was setting in on my parents and I was exhausted from only having a few hours of sleep.
After resting, we got ready for the big event...The meeting of my family and Ani's family. You'll have to read the next entry to hear all about it.

Henna Time

On Sunday night I was finally able to check off one of the remaining items from my original India Checklist - Henna!

Monday was the Hindu festival, Karva Chauth, which is celebrated mainly in the north of India. On this day, married women fast for the long life of their husbands. The ritual is supposed to signify the woman's extreme love and devotion to her husband.

While it sounds very one-sided, husbands also give their wives a nice gift (jewelry) after the fast is broken - which is after the moon (or chand) is seen.

On Sunday evening, Ani and I went to dinner with all of his siblings, their spouses and their children to celebrate the 9th wedding anniversary of one of his sisters and her husband. After dinner we all went to a local market where the women got henna in preparation for the festival the next day. I didn't actually participate in the festival (nor did I receive any jewelry), but it was a great occasion to finally get henna.

Charles and Wanda are coming!

My parents arrive in Delhi very late on Thursday night for their first trip to India. I'm not sure how excited they are, but I certainly am. We will spend the first few days in Delhi before heading on to Agra (to see the Taj Mahal) and Jaipur. After Jaipur, I'll return to Delhi, but they will continue on to Udaipur where they will stay in the fabulous Lake Palace Hotel. I'm already jealous because when I visited Udaipur, we only went to the Lake Palace for lunch...

And finally, my parents will return to Delhi just in time for Diwali, which is next Friday, November 9th. Everyone I've about their visit immediately replied, "What a wonderful, festive time to visit India." It's true. This is a great time to be in Delhi because the weather is mild, people are happy and there is excitement in the air. But it also means that more people are out and about on the roads and in the markets. And it means that firecrackers are constantly going off and scaring the crap out of me.

My parents will also meet Ani's family for the first time. In addition to celebrating Diwali with them, next Saturday is also Ani's father's birthday, so I am sure there will be a family gathering for that.

All in all, the next few weeks will be very busy - between my parents visit and the holiday, but it should also prove to be an exciting time.

Beware of the Monkeys

In my time in India, I've heard some crazy stories about monkeys, including a story from Ani about monkeys in his house (see Monkey Business), but the latest one might be the craziest of all.

Over the weekend the Deputy Mayor of New Delhi was attacked by monkeys while on his terrace. In his attempt to escape from them, he fell over the balcony. And unfortunately, yesterday he succumbed to the head injuries he sustained.

People acknowledge that monkeys are a problem. And although there have been initiatives to capture monkeys and remove them from the streets, people are scared of them and little action is taken.

CNN: Man Dies in Monkey Attack

Black Eyed Peas and Beyonce in India

Yes, I've been slacking on my blog in recent weeks, but with good reason. More to come on that later.

What do the Black Eyed Peas and Beyonce have in common?

Both will perform in India in concerts that are co-sponsored by Accenture. The Black Eyed Peas performed in Bangalore on October 16th and Beyonce will perform in Mumbai on October 27th. I guess with 35,000+ employees in India, the majority under the age of 30, Accenture sees a lot of value in co-sponsoring concerts. Unfortunately for me, conservative Delhi is not a concert hot spot (although Akon did perform here the other week), so unless I'm planning a trip down to Bangalore or Mumbai in the near future, I will have to miss out on these and any other concerts that pop up.

Happy Birthday Gandhi-ji

Today is Gandhi's Birthday and a national holiday in India.

It's also the beginning of October - which starts holiday season here. I just counted 13 official holidays between now and the end of the year. But several of these fall on weekends. And most of them I don't get anyway because I work for a private company. But the government gets them all off!

Early November is Diwali, the most festive time of the year and a wonderful time to be in India, so I'm really looking forward to it. Other than that, it's all work for me, believe it or not.

India in the News

A few of my friends are VERY good about passing on news stories that they read about India. I thought it would be nice to share them with everyone, so I've added a section to the right called India in the News. As I see interesting news stories on India, I'll be sure to add the links. Enjoy!

Chak De India!

This is how yesterday afternoon unfolded:

4:15pm: Mass exodus from the office building

5:00pm: I decided to leave the office because everyone else was gone

5:15pm: Major traffic jam in Gurgaon (much earlier than normal)

5:30pm: India vs. Pakistan match begins

7:00pm: I walk to the market but most shops are closed

8:45pm: India wins the match by 5 runs

8:45:01pm: Neighborhood erupts in cheers
8:46pm: Impromptu fireworks start and continue throughout the night

Tuesday: Everyone is offered congratulations about India's victory
Nonstop: News coverage and water cooler talk about the match

Hindustan Times: India Beat Pak in Cliffhanger, Lift T20 World Cup

Wickets and Idols

Life in India really isn't all that different from life back at home.

Yesterday, two stories dominated the news: Sports (India's advancement to the finals of the Twenty20 Cricket World Cup) and Entertainment (the grand finale of Indian Idol).

Tonight India takes on its political rival, Pakistan, in the Twenty20 finals and it's all anyone can talk about it. It will be the first-ever final between these two nations and a very emotional ones (for the right or wrong reasons). Since I've learned more about cricket during my time in India than I ever thought imaginable, I'll probably be in front of the TV, just like everyone else here, cheering for India this evening.

And last night, a young man from Darjeeling won the hearts of India and was crowned the newest Indian Idol. The finale was much like those in the US, with minimal singing from the contestants, appearances from random artists and even the same theme song. It was the third installment here of the world-wide phenomenon where, I read in the paper today, 70 million votes were cast.

If it weren't for the heat, dust, power outages and water shortages, I might forget where I was.

Do You Know Your Blood Type?

I didn't either until the other day when I called my mom. I was in my new Accenture office filling out the paperwork work for a badge and access card and one of the lines on the form was for my blood type. I kind of laughed and said, "I don't know this." I was then told that I had to know and that I should go to the hospital next door and have a blood test done. My easier solution was to call my mom.

Every Indian I asked know could rattle off his/her blood type without hesitation. As it turns out, most companies and offices require a person's blood type to be listed on his/her badge. In case of an emergency, this information is readily available. I know in the U.S. it's not too difficult to determine someone's blood type if needed, but here, I figure if they want to make sure they have this information handy, just in case, that's fine with me.

And for the record, my blood type is A+.

Settling In...Again

Today is my 4th day in Delhi and it's nice to be back. In this time I've gotten settled into my apartment, met Ani's entire family and started my job. This evening I'll be reconnecting with a few friends at one of my favorite restaurants. And tomorrow I will be playing host to some Accenture/ADP colleagues that are in town for a few days at another favorite restaurant.

I've had to readjust to several things, including the heat (100 degree days), the dust (there's a lot of it), power cuts (frequent but short), walking/passing on the left and not the right (I've had a few near-collisions in the hallway), and an overappreciation of lunch and chai breaks.

Yesterday I called the Foreigner's Regional Registration Officer with whom I have to register within 14 days of my arrival in India. I called from my office around 1:45pm and I was told that it was lunch time I should call back after 2:30. Thanks. And of course, when I called back, no one answered. Well, someone answered once, but hung up before I could say anything.

I've also had to readjust to the notion of service here. Basically, I don't have to do anything myself. I have someone to drive, cook, and clean for me. In the Accenture office, I don't even have to make my own copies. There's someone to do that for me too. There's someone to stir my coffee for me too. Weird, but I swear it's true.

Now, if only there was someone to go to work for me...

Going Back to Delhi

After weeks (well months) of talk and speculation, I'm finally heading back to Delhi! I will be staying with my company and transferring to our Delhi office. There, I'll be working with our management consulting practice to develop and grow our capabilities in India. It's an exciting opportunity for me and I'm really looking forward to it.

Right now, I'm half way back to Delhi and sitting in the Amsterdam airport on a layover. After about 20 hours of travel, I should arrive in Delhi around 11pm. Then I'll have all day Sunday to sleep, adjust to the time difference and get settled in my apartment before starting work on Monday morning. There's nothing like hitting the ground running.

As you can imagine, I'm really excited to go back to India because Ani is there! But the job is interesting too and I'm thrilled that everything worked out. I'll be staying for at least 18 months, so I'll have time to put down some roots and I may even start to think of Delhi as home.

I'm sure part 2 of my Indian Adventure will be filled with excitement, frustration, new opportunities, challenges, adjustments to Indian ways, and fun! Nothing I can't handle.

India versus America

A few weeks ago, I finished reading The Hindi-Bindi Club by Monica Pradhan. The novel tells the story of three Indian women who immigrated to the United States in the 1960s and their three adult daughters who were born in the US. In one chapter, one of the Indian women is asked which she likes more, India or America. She compares that question to someone asking her which of her two children she prefers. In the end, she says that there are things that she loves about both India and America. I think she summed it up rather well:

Things I prefer in India...Real men ask for directions. Spirituality. Hospitality. Community. Respect for elders. Cultural diversity. Multiple languages. Traditions and celebrations. Family values. Family values.

Things I prefer America...Cleanliness. Relatively low corruption. Safety. Education. Efficiency. Use of please and thank you. Orderly lines (queues) and the concept of "first-come-first-served." Infrastructure. Conveniences. Work ethic. Respect for manual laborers and subordinates. Acceptance of outsiders. Cultural diversity. Accurate, detailed maps.

India Elects First Female President

Despite all of my complaints about the position of women in Indian society, India has managed to accomplish something that even the United States has not. At least not yet.

CNN: India Elects First Female President

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site

This past week, the Red Fort in Old Delhi was inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List. This brings the total number of World Heritage Sites in India, both cultural and natural, to 27.

Click here to see the full list.

India and the Caste System

I came across this interesting article about India and the Caste System in today's Washington Post.

A 'Broken People' in Booming India

Day Two in Paris

On our second day in Paris, we headed to Sacre Coeur and Montmatre in the morning. The handy-dandy funicular up the hill was out of order, so we had to walk. Fortunately, it wasn't as bad as I imagined and every time we stopped to catch our breathe, we were treated to spectacular views of the city.

After visiting the cathedral, we made our way to the main square and wandered through the streets before deciding on a cafe. We stopped to have a drink - but mostly to have a good vantage point for people watching. Soon, we made our way back down the hill, stopping at a few stores along the way, and moved on to our next stop.

From Montmatre, we hopped on the Metro and emerged at the Arc de Triomphe and the largest traffic circle in the world. After admiring the arc and taking the requiste photos, we stood on the corner and watched a police officer direct the traffic. We were quite amazed at her task and the skill with which she performed it. The Arc de Triomphe was our starting point for our stroll down the Champs Elysees, where we stopped for pizza and visited the Louis Vuitton flagship store.

In the afternoon we returned to the Eiffel Tower, so we could go up this time. Lucky for us, the line wasn't that long and we decided to go all the way to the top. Before taking the elevator up to the top, we stopped to admire the views and take photos on the second floor. Finally, we made our way to the top and it was definitely worth it. This was my fourth or fifth time in Paris, but my first trip up the Eiffel Tower. I don't know why it had taken me so long.

We stopped for coffee along the Seine so we could enjoy the Eiffel Tower a little more. From there, we headed to the Louvre to take advantage of the extended hours on Wednesdays during the summer. Unfortunately, we were a little later than placed and had to race there. We got there just in time and were able to visit the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo in a matter of minutes before the museum closed. Once outside, we lingered by the pyramid for awhile and remarked about how high it was for 10pm!

After leaving the Louvre, we walked along the Seine and made our way to the Latin Quarter. This area was so lively and fully of students, tourists, cafes, and street performers. We had wonderful gyros for dinner and yummy ice cream for dessert. But finally, the night came to an end and we head to return to our hotel since we had to depart for the airport at 6:30am!

Day One in Paris

On Monday, we packed up all of Ani bags (there were lot of them) and headed to Dulles Airport for our flight to Paris. The flight itself was uneventful. We arrived around 6 in the morning and made our way to our hotel in the Jardins des Plantes by train.

After a brief nap, we hit the streets for two packed days of sightseeing. We started on Ile de la Cite, with visits to Notre Dame, Sainte Chappelle, the Palais de Justice and the Marche aux Fleurs.

From here, we walked along the Seine for a bit and stopped into a pet store where we spent nearly an hour. Like everyone else, we fell in love with so many of the cute puppies there, but I kept me distance from the nasty mice in the back. Next, we walked to the Louvre and through the beautiful courtyard there on our way to the Tuileries Gardens. In the garden, I actually fell asleep for awhile and felt refreshed enough to continue our trek. Our final stop in this area was the Place de la Concorde.

We walked around part of the Champs Elysees for a bit and had dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant. A little later than planned, we took the metro over to the Eiffel Tower. We started at the Trocadero and took several of the required Eiffel Tower shots. From here, we walked on to the Tower, but were too late to climb the tour for the day. In all the times I have visited Paris, this is something I have never done, so it became a priority for this trip.

After the Eiffel Tower, we called it a day and headed back to the hotel for some R&R.

Putt Putt and Pizza

On Tuesday we experienced a few things that are very American - Putt Putt (or Miniature) Golf and Fast Food Pizza. In the afternoon, we ventured to a local driving range to play a round of mini golf, one of my favorite past times as a kid. Maybe Ani is the next Tiger Woods?

In the evening, we headed to the Adams Morgan neighborhood in Washington, DC. This is one of the more lively sections of the city and it's made up a few major streets that are lined with bars and restaurants serving food from around the world. That night we noticed French, Ethiopian, Italian, Mediterranean, as well as the American regulars.

First we stopped by the wonderful rooftop bar at The Reef where we enjoyed a few drinks before moving on to Pizza Mart, a DC institution. The pizza at Pizza Mart is HUGE and is much better when it's 3am and you've been drinking for awhile. In any case, I thought it was something that Ani had to experience.

We ended the evening with a stop for ice cream at Maggie Moo's followed by another rooftop bar visit, this time at Local 16.

BBQ Time

The last Monday in May was Memorial Day, which marks the beginning of the summer in the US, and we celebrated the holiday the way everyone should. With good food, good beer and good friends. My dad is probably one of the world's best BBQ-ers and was more than willing to cook all day when my sister and I asked. Lucky for us and our friends, as my dad delighted us with a feast. The menu included fried turkey, ribs, fried catfish, Maryland crabs, grilled shrimp, and of course, burgers and hot dogs. And that only covers the meat!

The highlight for me and my sister was watching the uninitiated attempts to break open and eat the crabs. We've had years of training, so we are professionals now and it doesn't take long. But for a novice, it can take awhile and it can be a pretty gross experience. Most will complain that the amount of meat retrieved from the crab is nothing compared to the amount of effort it takes. In any case, Ani was quite a sport and sat down to pick his very own crab (after Laura and I gave him no other option).

Panche, Char, Tin, Do, Ek: Flip Cup Adventures

On Saturday night we stopped by a BBQ at the house of two of my old roommates. We arrived a bit late and after a massive thunderstorm, so we missed out on most of the food. But, we didn't miss out on the drinking game fun!

I think this was Ani's first experience with American drinking games, which are a staple of any outdoor (and some indoor) party. Despite this, he was a good sport and joined in the game after some pleading from my former roommates. He held his own in the Boys vs. Girls game, but was later eliminated when we started playing "Survivor Flip Cup." For the uninitiated, in Survivor Flip Cup one player on the losing team is eliminated each round.

Glennon even made the game more appealing to Ani with a Hindi countdown to the first flip!

P.S. We left before the match was over, but we were later told that the Girls were victorious over the Boys!

A Bold Elephant

I really miss the news in India. I just came across this news story about an elephant. Good times.

Day 22: More Washington, DC

We spent Friday afternoon exploring more of the sights in Washington, DC. Our stops included the Capitol, the Air & Space Museum, and the White House. The weather was super hot (95 F/35 C), but we put up with it long enough to enjoy some of the best sights in Washington. Personally, I loved the stop in the Air & Space Museum, my favorite in DC. And for Ani the highlights were obviously the US Capitol and the White House.

After getting our fill of tourist sights, we went to the weekly jazz performance in the Sculpture Garden of the National Gallery of Art. There we met up with several of my friends - Kelly, Mike, Nyla and Michelle. The garden was packed with people since it was the first concert of the summer series and the first day of a holiday weekend signifying the start of the summer.

After jazz, we had a wonderful Mediterranean dinner at Zaytinya with Mike, Nyla and Michelle, followed by drinks at Indeblue. Finally, after a long and exhausting day, we headed back to Reston.

Pittsburgh Part 2

Last Saturday we headed up to Pittsburgh again for my sister's graduation from an Arts Management Masters program at Carnegie Mellon. This visit was different from our last in that it was longer and we weren't there to be tourists. Instead, it was filled with family and celebrations in honor of Laura. And this time we stayed at a hotel in downtown Pittsburgh since Laura's place was full of boxes and random pieces of furniture.

Here's a photo of the happy graduate with her new diploma to go alongside her one from MICA.

On Sunday night we had a big family dinner (Mom, Dad, Laura, Granddad, Aunt Louise, Uncle Calvin, Ani and me) at Buca di Beppo in Station Square. At dinner I ordered WAY too much food and spent nearly 1/3 of the bill on wine! I guess that's the last time my dad will put me in charge of ordering!

After dinner, Ani and I walked around the shops and restaurants at Station Square for a bit before heading back to our hotel. Monday morning we slept in and eventually made our way to Laura's apartment so we could eat leftover food and help her pack up her things. But, I smartly hit the road before the heavy loading started. All of my former roommates will attest to my general dislike for packing and moving.